Close to the Delhi-Mumbai expressway in southeast Delhi, four laborers unload piles of jeans from a vehicle. These jeans are taken to Meethapur village, where they are dyed blue in illegal dyeing units. The untreated toxic chemicals used in the dyeing process flow into nearby gutters, turning them deep blue.In Meethapur, the main gates of these illegal units are often locked, but freshly dyed jeans can be seen drying on terraces. Numerous drains crisscross the area, carrying chemical-laced water that converges on the local pond, Bhatte Johad, which is easily recognizable by its blue color and surrounding garbage.
Environmental Impact and Health Risks
The process of dyeing denim, while creating much sought-after garments, is environmentally unsustainable. According to experts, synthetic indigo dye does not dissolve in water and requires chemicals to penetrate and color the denim fibers. These dyeing and denim washing units are not allowed outside industrial zones, yet many operate in non-conforming areas like Meethapur.
Eco-activists warn that the toxic waste from these units flows through drains into the Yamuna River, harming the aquatic ecosystem and contributing to frothing in some river stretches. Soil and groundwater are also contaminated by improper disposal of chemical waste.
Residents of Meethapur report health issues due to the contamination. Jagdish Chand Sharma said, “A foul smell emanates from the drains. In 2006, some of these units were shut down. But since then, many new units have come up. I have written to all agencies to act against them without anything happening.”
Another resident, who wished to remain anonymous, described how recent rains inundated roads with ink-like water, adding, “These units run in rented premises and the landlords earn hefty rents from them.”
Pollution and Regulatory Challenges
Nivit Yadav, program director of the industrial pollution unit at the Centre for Science and Environment, explained that the dyeing units discharge untreated chemical waste into the sewer, which flows to sewage treatment plants (STPs). However, STPs lack the capacity to treat chemical waste, allowing toxic material to enter the Yamuna. “These units use substances like hydrochloric acid, hydrogen peroxide, sulfuric acid, formic acid, caustic soda, agents, detergents, and salts. Since they don’t have effluent treatment plants, the discharge of chemical waste can be harmful to both humans and aquatic life,” Yadav stated.
Activist Varun Gulati has taken legal action against these units, filing a plea with the National Green Tribunal (NGT). He submitted video footage and geo-coordinates of 22 illegal dyeing units in Khyala and Meethapur. On July 23, the NGT asked a joint committee of the Delhi Pollution Control Committee (DPCC) and the Central Pollution Control Board (CPCB) to inspect the areas and report on actions taken.
Actions and Continuing Issues
A DPCC official claimed, “Joint teams of DPCC and Municipal Corporation of Delhi seal one or two illegal units every day.” On June 22 of the previous year, DPCC declared dyeing and denim washing units as highly polluting. The order stated, “Their effluent is substantial and carcinogenic due to the release of various harmful chemicals, including heavy metals. The colloidal matter present, in addition to the colors and oily scum, raises the turbidity, makes the water look foamy and smell bad, and inhibits the sunlight, affecting the self-cleaning property of water bodies and the Yamuna river. It has a very detrimental effect on the Yamuna and on human health as well as on flora and fauna.”
Bhim Singh Rawat, a Yamuna activist and associate coordinator of the South Asia Network on Dams, Rivers, and People, emphasized the severity of the issue. “While the Yamuna can dilute organic pollutants like sewage and flowers depending on the flow, the inorganic pollutants like dyeing chemicals impact the cleansing ability of the river. They severely affect the health of the river and damage the aquatic ecosystem,” Rawat explained. “Since such units release effluents that are rich in phosphate, this also results in froth formation in the river.”
Despite efforts by activists and regulatory bodies, illegal dyeing units continue to operate, posing ongoing environmental and health risks. The community and environment suffer as authorities struggle to enforce regulations and shut down these polluting operations.
(With inputs from TOI)
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