The first-ever Flurys Tearoom outside Kolkata opens in South Bombay, bringing a charming breakfast spread to the table

Replicating Kolkata’s Flurys seems like a fool’s errand. A soulful staple of Kolkatans and a must-visit for travellers, the heritage tearoom gives the impression of being too iconic, too nostalgia-inducing, to be recreated. After being in business for nearly a century and only opening kiosks across India, the Swiss bakery has now unveiled the first Flurys Tearoom outside of Kolkata.

But sitting on the sea-facing patio of Mumbai’s PJ Ramchandani Marg with a crisp newspaper and a fresh pot of Darjeeling tea, listening to the persistent patter of the monsoon meditatively rain down on the promenade extending from Radio Club to the Gateway of India, I find myself amidst that kind of Mumbai morning you don’t want to end. 

Here, on the steps of the Sea Palace Hotel, Flurys’ fuchsia-toned font hasn’t simply been stamped across a new signboard. Its essence mirrors the magic that has swirled about the silver tea strainers at the original Flurys since 1927. Not because it looks like the original Flurys, but because it feels like the original Flurys. A comfortable inkling that draws you in like the shamrock-green tins of plum cakes and the gaudy-yet-gorgeous strawberry icing decorating the pastries, with enough individualism to avoid coming off as too contrived—views of sea spray splashing over the sidewalk at the fore, and enough new-fangled fare for the Swiss bakery to fill SoBo’s health-conscious, vegetarian, and Jain crowd.

The Food

At South Mumbai’s first Flurys, which opens at 7am sharp, breakfast is king. And for my money, the French toast gets the royal treatment. Made with freshly baked in-house milk bread, the end result finds that ideal balance of a satisfyingly crisp crust that gives way to a delightfully soft belly. Watching the slab of butter that tops it slowly melt across the toast is practically therapeutic.

Then there’s the stick-to-your-ribs full English breakfast. You don’t have to pick between bacon and sausages as you get both (the bacon comes standard as chicken, but you get crispy pork bacon on request), complete with baked beans, sunny side up eggs, hash browns, loads of toast, thyme-speckled mushrooms, a griddle-roasted tomato, and choice of tea of coffee. It even comes with a fruit bowl and juice for those who want to wash down the fulsome goodness. Other hearty fare includes the eggs Benedict, which is more of an eggs Florentine; the poached eggs sit on a sizable bed of sauteed spinach and sport a decent Hollandaise.

Of course, a fair portion of the crowd expected to patronise the place are your early morning joggers and walkers looking for a post-fitness fix, for which plates of assorted seasonal fruits, granola bowls, shakshuka (request sourdough toast for dipping), and the vegan breakfast—where the non-veg items of the full English are swapped with masala-scrambled tofu, sliced avocado, and vegan cheese spread (‘milk’ options include almond and soy)—aim to hit the spot. The eggless croissant is noteworthy, up there with counterparts from some of the best bakeries in the city. And staples like Flurys’ flat-tossed omelettes hold up.

Lunch-goers will likely lean towards classics like the chicken & mustard sandwich or newer additions like the vegan flatbread or the ample selection of continental salads. Given the space is open until midnight, there is also a relatively wide array of larger plates that include dedicated pasta and burger sections, as well as dishes like grilled lamb chops, rosemary-marinated chicken, or mixed mushroom risotto.

And then, of course, there are all the sweets. Those with a penchant for the sweeter things in life will gravitate towards the rum balls (which contain no rum in Mumbai), strawberry cakes, and ice cream concoctions like the banana split and peach melba. The Mumbai market also gets items like mini macarons and Biscoff cheesecake. Those with a more tempered taste for sweets will enjoy the plum and tea cakes on offer, while others who have no patience for sugary treats can still pop in for freshly baked loaves of milk and sourdough bread.

The coffee here is decent, and the tea selection is solid; though guests may be surprised to find that alcohol is served here with full-on Flurys flair. Think, espresso martinis and Irish coffees, served until the tearoom closes at midnight.

The Space

Flurys lies to the left of the Sea Palace Hotel’s lobby. While nice and tidy, the interiors fall short for anyone who has been to the original Flurys… there’s simply no comparison. However, the patio area, including a row of tables ensconced between the hotel’s manicured bushes and hedgerow, lets guests enjoy the tranquillity of this special slice of SoBo—calm and quiet compared to pretty much anywhere else in Colaba, on a street lined with beautiful heritage buildings. It’s the kind of place where the best company is a good book, letting you leisurely drink in its words with your tea.

The Team

Arshad Shaikh, the Head Chef at Flurys Tearoom, Mumbai, has worked at the original Flurys three times over his career. He’s looking to bring Flurys Teamroom’s classics to a new Mumbai market, but also adapted his menu to include new dishes that fit the bill of the new outlet, adding more eggless bakes and healthy fare so that everyone can join in the fun. He’s also immensely proud of his bread loaves. The milk bread was already sold out the morning CNT visited.

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